Riding
shoreline, I discovered, entails a very particular kind of
rambling--super-slow, constantly navigating around big rocks and ice-blobs,
stopping occasionally to carry the bike over big boulders or across little
(frozen) streamlets emptying into the river. It’s more like a roll-and-stroll
or hike-a-bike than an actual ride. I probably only went about a kilometer
before turning back. But I loved it. The sun was shining, the ice was doing its
lazy, mesmerizing dance, and I was completely alone. It felt like a different
world down there, a secret one, a beautiful one, with its own surprising
soundtrack.
As any
fisherman, goldpanner, or kid will tell you, being on the shore, at the
convergence of water and land, is a very different experience from being just
near it, up on a trail, no matter how close. The shore is where things happen:
skipping stones, finding treasures, getting soakers. Alas, the signs of human
intrusion are inescapable--the Safeway bags, Tim Hortons cups, and Budweiser
bottles. But the shoreline has so much going on that it's easy forget, down
there, if only for a few minutes, that you're in the city at all.
But the best
part of being down along the water during ice-up is the sound. The chunks of
ice floating downstream rub against each other and up against the ice forming
along the shore, and in so doing, they make eerie scraping noises—deep,
subterranean, scritchy sounds, surprisingly loud and difficult to isolate
exactly. Like a ventriloquist throwing a voice, the amoebic river ice tosses
its sound effects off into the distance somehow. I kept thinking that the
fricitony sounds must be coming from some mysterious watercraft or some other
extremely fat bicycle rolling behind me, as unlikely as either of those
possibilities seemed. Numerous times I found myself looking around to see just
where the sounds were coming from, even though I knew, on a rational level,
that they could only be emanating from the slow-moving ice beside me.
On my way
back to the car, I met a fellow (road) cyclist crossing the pedestrian bridge.
As we rode side by each, we chatted about the glorious day and the late riding
season. He commented, as so many still do, on the fat bike and expressed his
curiosity about it. "I bet you can go all kinds of places on that
thing," he said. I thought about telling him where I'd just been, but
instead I just smiled and said, "You bet."
I love watching the ice form on the river early in the winter, but I'd never even thought of the sounds it must be making. Next winter, I am going to take a wander on the shoreline to check it out!
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